Saturday, January 26, 2019

SOUTH AFRICA: CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, SEAL ISLAND

Cape Town is a beautiful city, although the residual signs of apartheid are still apparent, and glaringly so.  The city is subdivided into districts from the days of moving the indigenous black Africans to areas in which they were completely segregated, both economically, socially, and politically, from the white Afrikaans.  Many of the more affluent homes are surrounded by towering barbed wire and electrified fences.  

 This morning we took a drive down the Atlantic coast to the Cape of Good Hope.  This coastal land is some of the most beautiful that I'd ever seen with towering rocky slopes that seemed to come right out of the ocean.  These are some of the photos of the drive and the cape.





The village where we embarked on our boat trip to Seal Island

Hundreds of seals on Seal Island


CAPE TOWN, TABLE MOUNTAIN, AND VICTORIA AND ALFRED WATERFRONT

This morning, after a delicious breakfast by campfire out in the salt pans followed by an exhilarating ATV drive back to the jeeps at the edge of the pans, we left the great adventure of Botswana (my favorite trip to date) and flew back to "civilization."  Destination, the beautiful city of Cape Town, South Africa.  We stayed at the ONE AND ONLY CAPE TOWN HOTEL located on the waterfront and surrounded by the view of Table Mountain.  






statue of Nelson Mandella District Six Museum


The next morning we took a stroll through the lush gardens and arboretum of De Waal Park in the heart of the city.
ancient Banyan tree in the park


Table Mountain




view of Table Mountain






The area known as the Malay Quarter is built against the steep slopes of Signal Hill.  It is one of the oldest parts of Cape Town, and is one of the few to have retained some of its historical character.  It originated during the third quarter of the 18th century.  The first houses in this neighborhood were probably built in 1790 but between 1795 and 1820 and increasing number of lower income families including many artisans began to make their homes here.  The influx of Malays into this quarter probably began in the 1830's when slavery was abolished and Malay residents who had been forcibly brought to the Cape began to make their homes there, and by the middle of the 19th century it was already known as the Slamse Beurt, or the Islamic Quarter. It owes much of its character to the nature of its domestic architecture, mostly single story houses with flat roofs painted in a variety of pastel colors.  The Quarter was probably a major factor why the Cape Malay community managed to retain its identity as a group.  Unfortunately the quality of its environment began to deteriorate after WW1.  In 1944 it was declared a slum.  This led a number of prominent Cape Town citizens to form a group for the retentio of the Malay Quarter with the support of both the then Historical Monuments Commission as well as the City Council.  It was declared a National Monument in 1966.
 Wikipedia




 

BOTSWANA: EXPLORE MAKGADIKGADI PANS NATIONAL PARK, MEERKATS AND ATV ADVENTURE, A NIGHT UNDER THE STARS



Eerie desert shadows

This morning, right after an incredible breakfast...and how do they manage with no electricity?...we took a jeep ride out to the meerkat family.  The little creatures are tame, seem to be rather fond of humans, and act very much like tiny prairie dogs.  We were instructed to let them get acquainted with us and soon they would be climbing up on our shoulders and hat-covered heads!  This proved to be true!



 
Zebras digging for water in the desert




Two of my favorite New Yorkers on our trip!
 Later in the day we took a jeep safari deeper into the salt pans located in the middle of the Botswana savanna!  This was the beginning of one of the most adventuresome days of my lifetime and, I'm sure, many of the others in our small group.  Once we disembarked from our jeeps, each twosome was provided with an all terrain vehicle and some rudimentary instructions on how to drive them.  We literally rode into the most exquisite sunset I'd ever seen.  The word ZEN is the best way to describe it.  We stopped and quietly walked to our own lone spot in this incredible desert.  No speaking....only the quiet and the amazing sunset.  Behind us, the sky was an iridescent aqua that blended into a monochromatic "blue scape."  It was a prayer of sunlight and the birth of the evening stars beyond.  


ATV caravan about to embark on a magical mystery tour
 


Sitting in the warmth of the bonfire as we await our dinner

Dinner by kerosene lanterns out on the salt pans

I believe that the most exciting adventure of this entire "trip of a lifetime" was spending the night out in the salt pans of the Kalahari desert under billions of stars.  I tried to stay awake as long as possible, but the evening was so relaxing and soporific that this was difficult.  I believe I was the first person awake the following morning and I watched the sunrise in the east from my comfy iron bed!  Absolutely magical! 

Our beds in the Kalahari Desert



BOTSWANA: Eagle Island Camp, mokoro canoe safari, helicopter ride over the delta, visit to local village

Mokoros are traditional dugout canoes that glide to areas inaccessible by other boats.  Today we will go to deeper waters and continue our exploration of this fantastic and seasonal paradise in the Okavango Delta.

Fish Eagle
Pelican






hungry crocodile



 After the canoe safari, we took turns in shifts of 4 in a helicopter safari to see the game from above!




springbok



a pod of hippos

 We took a trip to a nearby village where we toured and learned about village life.  One of the most striking features is that the school aged children are sent away to boarding school.  Some parents decide to keep their children at home.


A village located close to Eagle Camp
One of the villagers makes Mokoro canoes



The women of the village make crafts for sale
Another colorful African sunset