Friday, January 24, 2020

ADRIATIC TREASURES: Pula, Olive Oil and Beer Pairing Dinner

The amphitheater at Pula




We drove to Pula at the southern tip of the Istria peninsula for a visit to its great amphitheater constructed between 27BC and 68 AD with much of it still standing today.  Our guide, who was one of the most entertaining of our local guides, explained that Pula had 3 major styles in architecture:  the Venetian architecture, the architecture of the Ottoman Turks, and the prison like architecture of the communist years.  She informed us that she is trained as a veterinarian, but as the government sets most of the salaries and values tour guides above doctors of any stripe, she is now a tour guide!  Fascinating.  We walked through the city and saw much of this diverse architecture en route to the amphitheater.  She asked if anyone would be willing to sing as a demonstration of its phenomenal natural acoustic.  I was volunteered by our group, but I refused to sing more than a few measures of O Mio Babino Caro.  The tour guide, with teary eyes, later confessed that she was fluent in Italian so I can only imagine that my butchering of the language is what made her cry!




We continued to a family owned olive oil farm in Vodnjan, renowned for producing one of the top 15 olive oils in the world, for a tasting tour.  The family was intent on educating us as to the difference between a 'true" olive oil and a fake olive oil.  A true olive oil will harden in the refrigerator.  It will taste a bit like grass after it's been warmed.  We were cautioned that there is almost a mafia like black market business in olive oils meant to deceive the public. 

Next stop was for lunch and exploration in the quaint fishing village of Rovinj.


The narrow shopping streets of Rovinj
The shop where I bought my soapstone candlesticks

Tonight's dinner was at San Servolo brewery and includes a guided tour of the production process, expert insights by the beer master and a beer pairing dinner featuring six beers and six courses.  This is presided over by a professional beer sommelier.  A guitar player will entertain with a repertoire of traditional Istrian songs.  Fun night!  The couples who chose to pass on this event and eat in the town eventually all got sick!










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