ADRIATIC TREASURE: Venice

Venice is indeed a treasure.  With its labyrinth of narrow streets lined with small shops and eateries, it really is enchanting, but extremely crowded even in this off season. 

The boardwalk by the sea.  Talk about crowded!

The famous gondolas

St. Marks Square Piazza San Marco

St. Mark's Basilica

Doges Palace

The public rooms in the palace were meant to create awe

The crowded and narrow streets

Tonight we had a wonderful dinner in our hotel and created quite a raucous atmosphere.  Unfortunately the waiter came to our table and asked us to be quiet!  Very embarrassing. 

ADRIATIC TREASURES: Pula, Olive Oil and Beer Pairing Dinner

The amphitheater at Pula

We drove to Pula at the southern tip of the Istria peninsula for a visit to its great amphitheater constructed between 27BC and 68 AD with much of it still standing today.  Our guide, who was one of the most entertaining of our local guides, explained that Pula had 3 major styles in architecture:  the Venetian architecture, the architecture of the Ottoman Turks, and the prison like architecture of the communist years.  She informed us that she is trained as a veterinarian, but as the government sets most of the salaries and values tour guides above doctors of any stripe, she is now a tour guide!  Fascinating.  We walked through the city and saw much of this diverse architecture en route to the amphitheater.  She asked if anyone would be willing to sing as a demonstration of its phenomenal natural acoustic.  I was volunteered by our group, but I refused to sing more than a few measures of O Mio Babino Caro.  The tour guide, with teary eyes, later confessed that she was fluent in Italian so I can only imagine that my butchering of the language is what made her cry!

We continued to a family owned olive oil farm in Vodnjan, renowned for producing one of the top 15 olive oils in the world, for a tasting tour.  The family was intent on educating us as to the difference between a 'true" olive oil and a fake olive oil.  A true olive oil will harden in the refrigerator.  It will taste a bit like grass after it's been warmed.  We were cautioned that there is almost a mafia like black market business in olive oils meant to deceive the public. 

Next stop was for lunch and exploration in the quaint fishing village of Rovinj.

The narrow shopping streets of Rovinj

The shop where I bought my soapstone candlesticks

Tonight's dinner was at San Servolo brewery and includes a guided tour of the production process, expert insights by the beer master and a beer pairing dinner featuring six beers and six courses.  This is presided over by a professional beer sommelier.  A guitar player will entertain with a repertoire of traditional Istrian songs.  Fun night!  The couples who chose to pass on this event and eat in the town eventually all got sick!

ADRIATIC TREASURES: Postojna Caves, Truffles and Fritaja

This trip has been an exciting blend of castles, cathedrals, country villages, ancient cities, and now one of the highlights for me, Postojna Caves.  We got started very early this morning to beat the crowd of mostly European tourists.  This is a "subterranean world of caverns, halls and passages some two million years in the making!"  In fact, it feels very much like an underground world of mystery, light, shadows and beauty.  This cave is a 24, 340 meters long karst cave system in southwestern Slovenia.  We began our exploration on an electric train, and at times I could reach out and touch the wet walls of the cave.  The lighting accentuated the gorgeous stalactites and stalagmites.  A truly thrilling experience!

At the conclusion of our trip through the caves, both in the train and on foot, we were serenaded by an all male Slovenian chorale (except they included one lone soprano) who sang so beautifully in the magical natural acoustic.  I will never forget this experience. 

If that wasn't enough adventure for one day, we next visited a family owned truffle farm, complete with truffle sniffing dogs.  We followed the dogs to watch them find these underground delicacies.  It was so wonderful to pet the pups, too. 

At the conclusion of watching the truffle hunting dogs, we enjoyed an absolutely delicious lunch of scrambled eggs and truffles, with a side of grappa, of course!

Hmmmm truffles!  They don't look like much, but oh so good

This is a young dog who was more of a lover than a hunter!

ADRIATIC TREASURES: Ljubljana Castle, Bled Castle

The view from the top of the castle was magnificent.  In fact the entire area looks like it came straight out of a fairy tale!  Next we visited Radovljiica, a country village.  We visited a gingerbread making shop and stopped for lunch in a beautiful courtyard restaurant.

Young woman making the dough ornaments

The lovely cafe where we had lunch

Bled Castle!  I can't help but wonder about the names of some of these towns...SPLIT, BLED?

Bled Castle behind the knockout roses

Beautiful chapel in Bled Castle

This beautiful church on the island that evoked the Avalon of yore

ADRIATIC TREASURES: Trakoscan Castle and Ljubijana

Trakoscan Castle from below

One of the most impressive castles in Croatia, Trakoscan Castle dates back to the 13th century and reflects myriad architectural styles and restorations over its 800 year history.  We were greeted by some rather jaded knights and elderly ladies in waiting dressed to the nines in hooped dresses and pointy shoes.  Some of the actors invited us to join in a folk dance, and you know I was the first one to jump up and join the festivities! 

Looking more like the queen and king than the knight and lady

Our final destination today was the beautiful city of Ljubljana, capital of Slovenia and situated at the base of the Julian Alps.  This proved to be my absolute favorite city on the tour with its green spaces, youthful vibe, vitality, and cleanliness (noted as the cleanest city in Europe).  Below are many pictures of our free time walking tour on our first afternoon there.

Dragon overlooking the Dragon Bridge on Ljubljana River

To cap off this exciting day, the group chose to eat at a local restaurant that featured Slovenian goulash.  I wish I could replicate it in my kitchen because it was absolutely delicious!  One of the most memorable meals on our trip.

ADRIATIC TREASURES: Experiencing the capital city of Croatia, Zagreb

Strategically located at the crossroads where western and eastern Europe meet, Croatia's capital city of Zagreb is a blend of old and new, informed by wars and steeped in culture. Gene attended a discussion of current affairs by the former Minister of Tourism which he proclaimed to be an excellent synopsis of events under a socialist regime.

Later we set out to explore Zagreb on foot, joined by local guides for a walking tour that included the new-Gothic Cathedral, a cheese tasting at the local market, the main square and a funicular ride to the Upper Town where we had lunch.

Gothic Cathedral

The town of Zagreb at the top of the funicular was staged for tourists, but was very interesting and picturesque.  Tourism is now a booming industry in Croatia.  Our guide informed us that the government sets the salaries for many occupations and tour guides make more money that doctors and veterinarians.

Costumed woman playing folk music on a street organ

ADRIATIC TREASURES: Krka National Park, Roca, a Mock Wedding and Traditional Wedding Feast

The following morning we drove out to the Krka National Park, an hour south of Split. For over 1.5 hours we walked this lovely national park on a glorious day. Many boardwalks in the park cross streams and around small waterfalls. It was cool but sunny and a delightful morning of exercise and getting away from numerous tourists, although it became hectic around 11.30 am when we departed.  I will say that after spending so much time in the cities among monuments, tourists, and ancient architecture, Krka was a memorable highlight for me.  The place is magical...Zen!

One of many water falls in this park

Fish swimming in the reflection of the trees

Curious mallard

We had a cruise across a lovely lake before driving on to Stankovci and a pig farm with the biggest pigs in Croatia. They also grow olives and grapes. Several people put on a mock Croat wedding for us, while a funny local male guide interpreted what was going. He had us highly amused. About 12 locals were involved and the fun went on for about 30 minutes. At times it was pretty "avant garde"!
After it concluded, we went inside the house of Roca and Dalmatian hams and into a huge dining room where, along with many other visitors, we enjoyed a superb lunch of local foods.

The members of the mock traditional Croatian wedding

At 2pm we departed by coach for Split, passing via the back of Trogir on the way. The view from up on the coastal mountains was quite spectacular. The small Split airport terminal has been rebuilt and re-opened only three months ago. It is of very modern architecture. We waited for an hour for our flight and at 4.20pm we boarded a Bombardier twin prop 'plane for the 40 minutes flight up to Zagreb. Around 6.30pm we arrived at the lovely Esplanade Hotel in Zagreb for two nights.